Derby Rules
 
May 7th drivers meeting at 3:45
INSPECTION OPENS AT 10AM. CARS MUST PASS INSPECTION AND HAVE A FLAG BY 3:30
 DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice! NO ALL BLACK cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car. - Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons    
                                     
COMPETITION RULES:
 - Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds if we have to run heats.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them! - You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds. - You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers. - This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated. if the derby is stopped for sandbagging you will get a pink S sprayed on your car.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
Stock rules 80s and newer
Body:
- No sedagons, body creasing limited to rear quarters only. No other creasing or frame shaping, forming or folding allowed. - Hood must be open for inspection.
- Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. – All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2x2x2 angle,2x2 flat steel, chain or 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)or 6  locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk.
-Door seams may have no more than 12” of weld, vertical seam only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
-BODYMOUNTS:
-You may have up to a 6” core support spacer (it may not be welded if metal)
 - If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your 5/8 threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts to hold the hood down.
 -ALL body bolts must remain stock with the exception i will allow you to change up to 4 bolts with no larger than 5/8''x30'' long threaded rod max with 3 nuts, 3-5/8 store bought washers and 3-5''x5'' 1/4'' thick plates per rod. Must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have 1 inch rubber or metal spacer no larger than stock body pucks and all bottom nuts must be inside frame. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece of #9 wire maybe substituted. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod
- No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.                                                                    
FRAMES:
 - You may dimple or notch your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
- NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames.    
  -At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down.
 – Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
- No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge. If caught cold bending or tilted will result in automatic disqualification.                                      
SUSPENSION and STEERING:
- You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
- You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
- You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
- You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
- All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
- Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
- Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1)  sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it's place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
- Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc.  A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
- 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to package tray and bolts may not stick thru body.  Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS. Must run factory control arms, may be shorted but nothing to strengthen them.
-98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.                                                                
DRIVETRAIN:
- ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, steel aftermarket bell housings allowed but trans tunnel must be cut and not touching the bell in any way, no trans brace, no mid plates.
-you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, may run aftermarket mounts as long as there the bushing style.
-no engine chains
Rear axle
- Any rear 5 or 8 lug, may not strengthen car in any way.
- Rear end brace will be allowed.
-Pinion brake is ok
- You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
- Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor.
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.                                                            
Bumpers:
- You may hardnose front and rear bumpers if desired, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below).  Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to core support mount but core support must bolt in the factor location. Do Not move the mount or mounting hole. you may also be hard nosed.
 Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front. - Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
-Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’. - BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. -IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame - Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends. - Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
 TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires. - No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector. -Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed. - All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
-03 and newer fords will have to maintain the factory aluminum cradle and factory rack and pinion. You may bolt in a steel mount for your engine but only bolted to the aluminum cradle in the original mounting holes. No welding allowed on the cradle.
 Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!!
  INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final. - You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car. - Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect) - Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location. - You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area. - No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers. - Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car. - Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!


Compact Rules 2022
GENERAL:
1. Cars can be powered by a 4 or 6 cylinder engine.
2. 108” FWD and 106” RWD Maximum wheelbase
3. No shortening of cars to achieve wheelbase limits.
4. No full frame cars.
5. If 4x4 cars are used, front or rear drive shaft must be removed.
6. No sedagons.
7. Batteries must be located in passenger compartment. TWO Batteries are allowed.
8. Cars MUST have working seatbelt and brakes. MANDATORY!
9. You must pass inspection within 2 times or you will not be allowed to run.
Body:
1. No body seams may be welded
2. No doubling of body panels allowed
3. Fenders may be bolted together. Max of 10 3/8” Bolts Above Fender Well Only! No bolting inner fender to frame. Outer fender area above wheel.
4. Doors may be chained, wired or welded. 3” x 1/4" x 6” plates. 6 inches on 6 inches off.
5. You must have an 8”x8” inspection hole in trunk lid.
6. Rust repair is limited to floor boards and roof only. Patch metal must be same thickness as floor board. 1” overlap to good metal outside of rust area stitch welded only. Do Not abuse this rule or you will cut. MUST HAVE PICTURES OF RUST REPAIR
7. Front Windshield Bar is MANDATORY. It is limited to a 3” wide x 1/4" thick strap or a chain/9 wire loop
8. Body creasing is ok
9. NO REAR WINDOW BAR
10. Window lips cannot be welded solid. 6” on 6” off only.
Radiator and Core Support
1. Radiator must be in stock position
2. Any automotive type radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are LEGAL.
3. NO Homemade Radiators Allowed
4. No Reserve Tanks and No Added Cooling Capacity.
5. One Electric Fan, mounted to Radiator may be used
6. Factory Core Support MUST be used. No fabricated core supports.
7. Do Not Move Core Support
8. Factory condenser or 32” wide by 1/4" thick mesh radiator protector is allowed
Hood:
You can have one of the following:.
**(6) 2” long pieces of 2” x 2” angle with a single 3/8” bolt thru them.(6) 5/8” MAX all thread, welded to sheet metal only, 3” weld 1 side
1. Hoods must have 2 holes, at least 4 inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor. If hood is removed, either the fan or the fan belt must be removed.
2. Hoods MUST open at inspection.
3. Hoods may be secured by 2 pieces of all thread thru core support. 1” diameter max. All thread cannot be sleeved.
Trunk:
1. You may use 4 pieces of all thread to secure the trunk lid. All thread can go thru rear frame or be welded to side of frame. If going thru the frame the washers may be no larger than 3” in diameter. No sleeving all thread and no nuts directly under trunk lid.
2. Trunk Lid MUST remain on hinges.
3. The trunk lid may be v’d in the center, BUT QUARTER PANELS MUST REMAIN STAINDING. (THIS IS TO GAIN VISION NOT BUILDING A TRUNK)
4. You can have 4 pieces of #9 wire from trunk to rear bumper.
5. Trunk can be welded down with 3” by 1/8” thick strapping 6” on 6” off.
Cage:
1. All cars MUST have a cage and roll over bar. 4” pipe or 4” x 4” square tubing MAX. THIS IS FOR DRIVER SAFETY.
2. A 4-point cage is required and limited to 4 points only. Your cage must have a dash bar that must be 4” from the firewall. Your cage must have a bar behind the driver’s seat no more than 12” away from it. You must have (2) side bars and they must not be farther than the rear wheel humps and must not extend past your dash bar. The side bars must not be welded to the rear humps.
3. Roll over bar cannot be more than 12” behind driver’s seat. It may be welded to rear sheet metal; you may use a 6” x 6” plate 1/4" thick to aid in attaching bar. It can be welded or bolted. Roll over bar may be bolted to roof. Roll over bar cannot run thru to frame
4. The cage can be welded to sheet metal only. You can have up to four (4) down posts, two (2) per side. You must have a dash bar, a cross bar behind the seat and two (2) door cross bars. Nothing can be ran between the rear wheel humps or welded to the humps.
5. Gas Tank Protector is allowed. 24” wide and 3” off of the speaker deck. Max 6” gusset from rear seat bar only. Do not connect side bars to gas tank protector.
 Frame:
1. No welding, plating or reinforcing of the frame.
2. ALL factory frame holes must be left open.
3. You can shorten front frame only to aid in mounting front bumper. (no shortening beyond core support)
4. You are allowed ONE of the following options, a 10” bumper shock max 2” diameter OR 3/8” PLATE 10” long 3” tall to side of frame. Must attach to bumper. Bumper shock can be internal. We will drill frame to check. If plate is used it must be external
5. You cannot “stub” or shorten front or rear of car body or frame.
6. K-Member can be bolted in with 1” allthread. NO WELDING…YOU WILL CUT
 Bumpers:
1. Any year bumper permitted. All bumper seams may be welded, bumpers may be loaded, and bumper must be a factory car bumper. Store bought homemade bumpers are allowed YNW or DEC. Fabricated tube bumpers need to be approved by official.
2. You may weld a piece of strap (6"x 1/4") from frame to bumper 1" overlap on each end. This is to aid in keeping bumpers off the track.
3. No kickers to bumper
4. Maximum bumper height 22” to bottom. Minimum bumper height 14” to bottom.
Engine / Transmission
1. Any 4 or 6-cylinder engine allowed. Must be mounted within 6” of factory motor position. Engines cannot protrude into the passenger compartment before the race.
2. Front wheel drive cars can weld motor mounts and replace the top mounts with 2x2 square tube factory length. Must be in factory configuration (not to be used to strengthen the car In any way.)
3. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. They must be secure and contained and covered inside the car, for the driver’s protection.
4. Slider shafts are allowed.
5. OEM crossmember or 2” x 2” square tube. Factory Style Rubber Transmission Mount must be used.
6. HOMEMADE Gas Pedals and Shifters Are Allowed
Gas Tank and Fuel Pump:
1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from original position and mounted in the rear seat area and secured. No rubber or chain straps. All tanks must have a secure cap. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fitting must be leak proof and meet approval of the track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed.
2. All lines must be run inside car, not along the frame underneath.
3. All lines should be double clamped.
Steering & Suspension:
1. Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car.
2. Aftermarket Tie rods are allowed
3. You cannot convert front suspension. IE: Factory strut car must remain factory strut. Factory A arm car must remain factory A arm.
4. You cannot convert rear suspension from coil to leaf.
5. Front struts can be welded solid with single bead of weld, sleeved, or aftermarket ones allowed (i.e. NLR, #Baggernation, or Tanked
6. A-arm cars get 4" total of strap 2" wide 1/4" thick to secure a-arms down per a-arm.
7. Coil spring cars may not substitute pipe or tube for spring.
8. any automotive rear end.
9. On leaf sprung cars, no more than 5 springs allowed per side and must be mounted in factory location with factory style hardware. You may have five (5) spring clamps per spring. Maximum 1" wide 1/4 thick. The leafs must have a 2” stagger front and rear.
10. You can shorten trailing arms, use minimum overlap and weld. NO doubling or reinforced trailing arms.
11. Front wheel drive cars, rear struts can be welded solid or sleeved but all trailing arms and rear axle assemblies must remain factory.
Tires:
1. Black rubber and round.
2. Wheels, 19” max beadlock or rim guard.
3. Weld in centers/Multi center are ok
4. Valve stem protectors are ok
If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t assume that you can.
IF YOUR FRAME OR K-MEMBER IS LOADED OR REWELDED THEN YOU WILL LOAD WITH NO CHANCE TO FIX
ASK first or don’t do it!
Everybody needs to read and re-read these rules.
If you are found to be over built for these rules, you will be given 2 options.
A. CUT OR REMOVE ILLEGAL PARTS.
B. LOAD ON TRAILER AND GO HOME.
Either way you will NOT RECEIVE A REFUND.

Contact:

Trent Smith 931-721-7174 or
Jason Schmidt 931-721-6453
houstoncountyfair@gmail.com